Know your steak

[Weib]

Know your steak

One can find steaks almost anywhere in Singapore, from hawker centres to high-end steakhouses. Why is there such a great difference in price, if all these places sell steaks?

The price of a piece of steak depends on a number of factors - the breed of cattle used, how the cattle are raised, as well as the type of cut. These factors all affect the taste and texture of the beef.

Marbling
Part of this is due to the marbling of the beef. Marbling refers to the little flecks of fat within the muscles of most beef. When the steak is cooked, the fat melts and makes the beef juicy and flavoursome. Some people believe that the more the marbling, the better the beef tastes.
Breed of cattle

The source of the steak also plays a major role in determining its price. Different breeds of cattle command different prices. The following is a brief description of three well-known breeds.
What are USDA beef grades?
USDA refers to United States Department of Agriculture - the American equivalent of Singapore's AVA. In the US, beef is voluntarily sent to USDA for grading.

There are eight USDA grades of beef. Only 3 grades of USDA beef are sold to consumers - Prime, Choice and Select. 3% of the steaks sold are certified USDA Prime.

How is wagyu graded?
Wagyu beef is graded by a 12-point marbling-score scale. The highest grade, 12, indicates that the beef is 90% fat and 10% meat.

Black Angus or Angus: The most popular beef breed of cattle in the United States. They have a high carcass yield with marbled meat, which makes their meat tender and juicy. The label 'Certified Angus Beef' is reserved for Angus beef which meets extremely stringent criteria - only 8% of steak meets them.

Chianina: An Italian beef breed of cattle which produces very lean meat, favoured by the Italians (particularly in Tuscany) and the health-conscious. It has more protein, less fat and less cholesterol than other beef.

Wagyu: The term refers to several breeds of cattle genetically predisposed to intense marbling and to producing a high percentage of unsaturated fat. Wagyu beef tends to be pricey because the cattle are fed a special diet which includes beer, sake or even wine. Wagyu beef is famous for its marbling, flavour, tenderness and juiciness. Examples of Wagyu beef include Kobe, Matsuzaka and Mishima.
Grass-fed, grain-fed, wine-fed

All cows have a diet that is composed of at least some forage (grass, legumes, or silage). It the majority of the cattle's diet is forage, they are termed grass-fed or pasture-raised beef. Some cattle are fed corn and other grain feed as they fatten up the cattle more quickly. These cattle are called corn-fed or grain-fed beef.

Grass-fed beef contains less fat compared to grain-fed beef, and consequently produce less "juicy" steak.

Wagyu cattle are fed a mixture of grain as well as beer or sake. Some are even fed wine. While the term 'wine-fed wagyu' sounds impressive, the fundamental difference the addition of wine (or beer or sake) to a cattle's feed is to fatten them up and increase their marbling. Most consumers will be hard pressed to differentiate wagyu fed on beer and wagyu fed on wine.
Cut 'em up

Before the steak ends up on your table, the beef is first divided into primal cuts, or basic sections, from which the steaks are then sliced. The toughest parts of a cow are its neck and legs, as these are the muscles which do the most work. The further away from "hoof and horn", and the closer it is to the middle back of the cow and to the bone, the more tender the meat. There are different naming systems for the various cuts in America, France and UK. The following diagram and table both refer to the American system.

Ageing - it's a good thing!

Contrary to its name, the process of ageing a cut of beef does not make it more tough - the contrary is true. In the ageing process, beef cuts are stored under controlled conditions of temperature and humidity before they are packaged for the meat counter. Ageing can take 2-3 weeks, and significantly increases tenderness and flavour by allowing natural enzymes to break down the hard connective tissue in meats and for water to evaporate, thus concentrating the flavour in the meat. Hog's Breath Cafe (right) is one restaurant here which uses aged beef.
Common steak cuts

Filet mignon
Also known as tenderloin, fillet, fillet de boeuf or tender steak.

Filet mignon is a thick cut of beef from the tenderloin and is extremely tender, even if it is not the most flavourful cut. It has less marbling than many other cuts. Some prefer this cut as it has less fat, yet is still tender. Most expensive.

New York sirloin steak
Also known as top loin, strip, strip loin, club sirloin, ambassador and hotel cut strip steak.

Similar to Porterhouse and T-bone steaks, minus the tenderloin portion. It is flavourful and very tender. Fairly expensive.

Porterhouse steak

This is a prime cut of T-bone steak, and includes the top loin and tenderloin. It is flavourful with a characteristic portion of fat. Chef Alexi Teo of The Steakhouse says this cut is their bestseller.

[Weib]

Upper half primal cut Notes

Chuck Used for hamburger meat

Rib Where you get your short ribs and ribeye steak. Flavourful and slightly fatty.

Short Loin Porterhouse steak . Fine-grained, flavourful.

Sirloin Most common steak here. Less tender than short loin, but more flavourful

Top Sirloin Most prized portion of sirloin

Round Lean and rather tough

Lower half primal cut Notes

Brisket Often used stewed and served with noodles

Shank Toughest cut; usually used in stews and soups

Plate Cheap, tough and fatty

Flank Tougher than loin and rib steaks, but also cheaper. Often used as London Broil steak.

Sirloin steak

The sirloin is tender but comparatively tougher than cuts from the loin or the rib as it is lean and lacks marbling. Low price.

T-bone steak

This is similar to the porterhouse, but with a smaller section of tenderloin and a smaller tail.

Ribeye steak
Also known as Delmonico steak or Scotch fillet.

This is one of the most popular steaks as it is tender and juicy, thanks to the extensive marbling of fat in the meat. Ribeye is thinner than Filet Mignon, but has a larger surface area. At The Steakhouse, their wine-fed wagyu is served in this cut. Expensive.
Cooking methods

Steaks are usually cooked using dry heat methods such as grilling, broiling, and roasting. They benefit from fast, high-heat cooking methods which sear the surface layer of the beef and thus lock in the moisture of the meat.

Steaks are sometimes prepared in a two-step process, as is the case at The Steakhouse, Clarke Quay. The steak is first cooked, then allowed to 'rest' for a short interval, depending on the thickness of the cut, before it goes onto the grill again.

The 'resting' interval allows all the internal juices to redistribute through the steak, instead of being concentrated in the core. This makes the steak juicy. If you attempt to eat a steak the moment it comes off the grill, the juices will drain out and the steak will taste dry.
Is it done?

Everyone prefers steak differently. While many Singaporeans like to have their steak well-done (particularly at hawker centres!), an over-cooked steak loses its juices and flavours.

Rare
The steak is red in the center, and gradually turning pink as it approaches the surface. The meat is juicy and tender, but it is not recommended for consumption.

Medium-Rare
The steak is grey-brown on the surface, and is mostly pink from the center outward with no blood-red areas. The meat is tender, juicy, and flavourful. This is the minimum degree of doneness that is recommended.

Medium
The beef is a bit pink in the center, and becomes grey-brown toward the surface. It has a firm texture but is still rather tender. The steak's surface is seared.

Medium-Well
The beef is mostly grey-brown, with just a bit of pink in the center, while the surface is browned. The texture is firm, and the meat has lost much of its juiciness, even though it is not dry.

Well
The beef is completely grey-brown, with a chewy texture and fairly dry taste. The surface of the steak becomes crusty. Many steak lovers abhor this degree of done-ness, saying that one might as well eat a hamburger.